Vendredi 22 avril 2011 5 22 /04 /Avr /2011 01:29

Our second stop within the Grand Canyon brings us to GC Village, that contains numerous landmark buildings and, of course, some spectacular Canyon views. 

The El Tovar Hotel, the premier lodging facility at the Grand Canyon, opened its doors in 1905, and is the most luxurious lodging on the South Rim. The hotel consists of 4 stories with a rustic chalet appearance. It was designed by Charles Whittlesley, chief Architect for the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway.

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Hopi House was built by Mary Jane Colter, a famous American architect, in 1905. It is based on structures that were built in an ancient Hopi settlement called Old Oraibi, located on the Third Mesa in eastern Arizona. It served as a residence for Hopi Indians who, at the beginning of the 20th century, sold arts and crafts to visitors in the South Rim. Nobody lives there anymore and the full house is dedicated to the exposition of the beautiful (and pricey) Hopi crafts. I particularly liked the pottery and carpets and I was tempted to buy one (a small one) but Ce was adamant it would look awful in our flat. I hate to say it, but she was right...

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Lookout Studio was built in 1914 and is another structure that was designed by Mary Colter. it was obviously quite revolutionary at the time to trust a female architect, so that makes these building even more interesting. Photography artwork, books, souvenirs, rock and fossil specimens are sold here. A great view of Bright Angel Trail, which leads half-way down the canyon, can be seen from there.

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The Desert View Watchtower was built in 1932, opened in 1933, and is one of Mary Colter's best-known works. A beautiful building designed to mimic an Anasazi watchtower though it is larger than the existing ones. The artworks on the walls murals are superb, colorful and extremely rich. The most distinct images, painted by Hopi artist Fred Kabotie depict various aspects of Hopi mythology and religious ceremonies, other murals done by Fred Greer are copies of prehistoric pictographs and petroglyphs. We loved them! Furthermore,  its unique position, on top of a 7,400 foot (2256 m) promontory offers one of the best and widest views of the Grand Canyon and Colorado River. 

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After visiting the buildings, we went for a stroll on the edge (literally) of the Grand Canyon. It was a-ma-zing! Even if it was freezing, we stayed until the sunset to test our new tripod.

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You cannot see it from the picture, but it was a very narrow path, full of iced snow, hence very slippery, with a sheer-drop of around 4000 feet (1300m) on the left-hand side. Oddly enough for such a family-orientated location, there was no warning sign of the danger. Ce was not feeling very confident, and I was not at ease either, even if I was trying to hide it by humming some made-up children songs. In a rare occurrence of a sensible grown-up attitude, I told to Ce that we should be taking another, more secure path... I can still hear her sigh of relief! 

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... good thing we made it through the day:

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Lundi 4 avril 2011 1 04 /04 /Avr /2011 01:08

We left with great relief the craziness of Vegas and headed towards the Grand Canyon. We made few stops as usual, as shown on the map below.

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Point B: Hoover Dam (shown in the previous article) 35miles, i.e. barely 45min drive from Las Vegas. That was an obvious stop for our trip as Celine fell in love with Superman when she was 6 years old, and you obviously know the important place of the Hoover Dam in Superman.

Point C: The Grand Canyon Skywalk situated in the Grand Canyon West.
It is an "unique observation deck that spans 70 feet (21.34 meters) over the canyon’s rim and sits 4,000 feet (1,219 meters) above the Colorado River". Hence as you can guess, offers breathtaking views of the canyon. Amazingly enough, Ce who suffers from severe vertigo insisted on going to the Skywalk! That would be the equivalent for me to visit a reptile vivarium i.e. insane! Nevertheless, she did kind of OK, gripping the rail all along, never looking down and managed not to faint...(barely). Even for me, it was a scary experience to be in the middle of this glass structure and literally walk on air... I can't really say that I enjoyed it but surely it was an interesting experience. On a minus point, it was not as big as expected from the pictures on the website and the price to access the Hualupai Indian Reservation at Grand Canyon West is a complete rip-off...
It's difficult to realise the scale of the Grand Canyon from pictures, you need to go and experience it yourself. It is really jaw-dropping and we got there at the best time of day, late afternoon, when the light was going from bland to deep yellow/red creating the most amazing colours from the stratified white/yellow/grey/red sections of the canyon.

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Oddly enough for a country so strict with health and safety regulations, outside of the bridge, there were no guard rails to prevent you from falling 4000 feet to the bottom. So far no one has fallen...

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I took the picture below while Ce was not paying attention to me. But of course, she did slap me when she saw the picture afterwards. You can't really see it but I was rather on the edge to take this picture...but it was not a case a life-threatening situation mind you.

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Fierce coffee effect?

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A shuttle took us from the Skywalk to 2 other viewpoints.

First, Eagle Point and its Native American Village where you can see ceremonial dance performed by members of the Hualapai tribe. There is an "authentic" Indian village, with several examples of Southwest and Great Plains Indian architecture. It includes Hualapai wichiups (made of tree branches), tipis (teepees) and Navajo hogans (made of wood and earth), all built by each tribe with authentic material, identical to those used for thousand of years.

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Second stop, Guano piont. During the the 1950' and 60's, bat guano or dung was mined from a cave across the canyon and trammed backed on cables. Rich in nitrate, it was used for the production of makeup (?!), fertilizer and explosives. Some of the mining relics still exist. It was by far our favorite stop as it provided superb perspectives of the Grand Canyon and Colorado river. Furthermore, we stayed until the sun sat and we were very fortunate to have an amazing light this day (our next sunsets or rises won't be so successful unfortunately during the rest of our trip).

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We stayed at Kingman that night, in a motel situated right next to the train tracks. To be noted: trains have to whistle at EVERY road crossing and they are very frequent on road 66, like every 10min... However, the whistling is so typical of American trains we see in films, Ce was enchanted... As far as I am concerned, I was really happy when we realised they were not running from 11pm to 5.30am! 

From D to E: A portion of the remaining of the historical Road 66.
Road 66 also known as "the Main Street of America" or "Mother Road" originally ran from Chicago to Los Angeles between 1926 and 1958, before being replaced by the Interstate Highway system. The 100 miles we drove belong to the National Scenic Byway of the name "Historic Route 66". The fact that the road has been doubled by an Interstate means that Road 66 is almost dead now, except for a few places where people try to maintain the spirit of the past:

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One of the famous trains we had heard a lot the previous night: the number of wagons is just unbelievable:

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No caption could do justice to the silliness of the pictures below...

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We did not stay there even if we were very tempted...

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The road 66 scenery wouldn't have been as typical if Celine hadn't decided to stop to take a hitch-hicker on board, in the middle of nowhere. To our amazement, the guy had had to abandon his wrecked car 300 miles before and was just going back home eastwards to Oklahoma (a thousand miles away). The only thing he was carrying was a bottle of water... so weird!
However, he was really nice and told us he had taken that very road 50 years ago when he was a kid and the only entertaining things on that long stretch were the roadside Burma Shave billboards, which are still present there.

Between E to F, toward Grand Canyon village. To be continued...

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Jeudi 24 mars 2011 4 24 /03 /Mars /2011 19:02

Well well well... after months of psychological warfare with Ce, I've finally managed to convince her to pay a visit to Sin City. My trump cards: a Circle du Soleil show performed only in Vegas (Mystere), and a trip to the Grand Canyon to celebrate her 40th Birthday in Western-style afterwards. She finally did not hate it as much as she thought she would, but we did not "like" it either. It is mostly an enormous fake and shallow Disneyland for bored people with poor taste. We spent 40 hours there, and we could not wait to leave after only 24h of them! But it was interesting to see it nevertheless. And we did enjoy some bits: our view of the Strip from our hotel room, the Bellagio Fountains show, the quirkiness of some of the main Hotels & Casinos.


First, a picture taken from the plane to show that this City is REALLY in middle of the desert. We wondered why on Earth some people would like to live there...!

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The Strip:

The Las Vegas Strip is an approximately 4.2-mile (6.8 km) stretch of Las Vegas Boulevard. Many of the largest hotel, casino and resort properties in the world are located on the Las Vegas Strip. Nineteen of the world's 25 largest hotels by room count are on the Strip, with a total of over 67,000 rooms. 

Strip view from our room. Being on the 17th floor, the windows were obviously locked, so I took the picture through the glass, hence the greenish effect.

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Much nicer by-night

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We stayed at the Treasure Island hotel, famous for its real-size Pirates boats. There is a free show every night with those 2 boats...oh our eyes! You have 2 categories of bad: so-bad-it's-good and so-bad-it's-awful... we had the last version! A bawdy cocktail of strippers, embarrassing jokes and ludicrous "choreographies"! That's when we realised we were in Vegas and not Disneyland...The boats were rather impressive though.

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End of the "Show" fireworks.

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Some of the well-known palaces-casinos.

Two of the newest additions: Wynn opened in 2005 and Encore in 2008

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The Bellagio and its famous and lovely Fountains show...

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...and its equally well-known Lobby ceiling, Fiori di Como, created by the glass artist Dave Chihuly in 1998.

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The rather gloomy and awful Luxor hotel

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Paris. It's where we started to be really fed up with the artificiality and bad imitation of the place...

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Caesars Palace

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Excalibur. This one won the prize for tackiness...

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And finally, the Venetian. We did not dislike this one so much...I mean, in comparison of the rest.

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EVERYWHERE! Tables and slot machines are everywhere. It's overwhelming. Especially when you see a guy taking out from his pocket a stack of $100 bills and betting as if they were mere Monopoly money. He was as cool as a cucumber! I was flabbergasted. On her side, Ce found the view of so many people playing their quarters, one after the other in the vain hope to get the jackpot extremely sad...


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When we finally left Las Vegas, we stopped at the Hoover dam to see the Mother Ship that provides LV with its electricity.

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Next stop: Road 66 and the Grand Canyon...

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Mardi 22 février 2011 2 22 /02 /Fév /2011 00:59

The Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens is an educational and research institution established by Henry E. Huntington in 1919. In addition to the Library, the institution displays an art collection strong in English portraits and French eighteenth-century furniture in the mansion, a dozen of little botanical gardens that feature sections for the historic Cactus collection, the Zen Garden, the Chinese Scholar's Garden, and many other specialty gardens.

First stop, the Huntington Library with its 5 millions of books, manuscripts, photographs, other works related to American and British history, and literature art. They are kept in the Munger Research Center and only available for scholars. But luckily for us, the Library Galleries display some of the most famous pieces.

One of the best known volume is an original illuminated Gutenberg Bible from around 1445. This is one of the earliest work printed with movable type (NB: Contrary to general misconception, Gutenberg  did not invent printing but allowed its mass production. Indeed, woodblock printed fragments from China were found, dated from 220 BC). Johann Gutenberg is thought to have printed about 180 copies of the Latin bible, 45 on vellum and 135 on paper. The Library has one of only 12 surviving vellum copies.

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Below, two examples of the many illuminated manuscripts

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Among the other exhibit treasures, one can find the 15th Century Ellsmere manuscript of Chaucer's The Canterbury Tales, early editions of Shakespeare's works, personal letters from Charlotte Brontë, Henri David Thoreau and manuscript poems from Robert Burns (!).

Next stop, the Conservatory for Botanical Science...

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followed by the Chinese Scholar's Garden: a bit bare in the winter, unfortunately, but still a very enjoyable place to walk around.

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the Japanese Garden:

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And finally, the Dibner Hall of the History of Science and its great exhibition, "Beautiful Science: Ideas that Changed the World":

Below, some drawings from John James Audubon (1785-1851), a famous american wildlife artist well-known for his "Birds of America" book. Unfortunately, our pictures don't do justice to these paintings with their rich details and vivid colors.

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Below, book on the left: "Tahir al-Majisti (The greatest book) written by Nasir al-Din Tusi (1201-1274), one of the greatest Persian scholars of that time. This is a version of Ptolemy's Almagest, a description of the Earth-centered universe. Tusi's criticisms of Ptolemy were similar to the arguments later used by Copernicus in 1543 to defend the Earth's rotation.

Book on the right: Johannus de Ketham (15th Century), Fasciculus medicinae or Medical groupings (Venice, 1501). This work is an example of a group of medical texts in wide use in the early 16th century, and the first one to use such realistic illustrations.

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The following propaganda was not found in the library but in the parking lot;  often car stickers say it best:

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Par C&N - Publié dans : Culture and Architecture
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Vendredi 4 février 2011 5 04 /02 /Fév /2011 01:01

One of the very good surprises about Los Angeles was its architecture: nothing to compare with the beautiful San Francisco unity but a much nicer place than the grey and & modern Washington DC. Very few skyscrapers, mountains visible from almost every corners (we almost had the feeling to be back in Grenoble), lovely beaches and many different ethnical neighborhoods (Little Korea, Little Ethiopia, Beverly Hills, Chinatown, El Pueblo, Downtown,...)

Downtown:

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Below, the very modern and very disconcerting Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels. 

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The magnificent Walt Disney Concert Hall designed by Frank Gerhy, the famous architect who made the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao in Spain.

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Besides the word "Cinema", the word the most associated with LA is probably "beach".

Malibu Beach

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Venice Beach

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El Pueblo de Los Angeles, oldest part of the City.

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The Griffith Observatory and the incredible night view of the city from the observatory

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